I used to write a lot of this stuff for the BMW M3 crowd () but never really did any bike write ups. So figured since I needed to change my plugs it could not hurt to take some pics and write it up.
So without further ado, 07/08 Yamaha R1 Spark Plug change.
Manual calls for a plug check/replacement at 8k miles. If you are going to take the time to get to the plugs I figure you might as well replace them.
What you need:
4 NGK CR9EK Spark plugs (I get mine on eBay for like $5 per).
5mm Allen wrench
10mm Box wrench and/or socket
Small Philips screwdriver
5/8" Spark plug socket
Socket wrench and 3" or so extension
Torque wrench (well at least you should use one).
This should take a well trained ape around an hour to do, someone handy can probably do it in 30 minutes or so.
1. Remove the lower fairing:
There are 3 5mm Allen bolts on each side and 3 5mm quick-turn fasteners (see pictures - bolts in blue, quick-turns in yellow)
Take out the bolts and release the fasteners and remove the lower fairing.
2. Remove lower center insert:
There are 2 5mm quick-turn fasteners, one on each side (see picture)
Release them and the insert will come out.
3. Release inner side fairing liner:
There are 3 plastic push pins on the left and 2 on the right (they are located behind the marks in the picture)
To release them use a small Philips screwdriver to push the center pin in. Once you release all of the pins on a given side just wiggle the liner a bit to get the pins out and release the liner.
Liner will stay on the bike, it only needs to be released from where it meets the side fairing, not where it is attached to the front fairing.
You can see the liner right behind the forks below as well as the recesses for the plastic pins
4. Remove the side fairings:
There are 3 quick-turn fasteners on each side fairing.
Release then with a 5mm Allen wrench.
There are tabs at the front edge of the side fairings. Sort of like a jigsaw puzzle. Carefully work the front part of the side fairing to release it from the upper fairing.
Be sure to disconnect the turn signals.
Repeat for the other side.
5. Release the radiator:
Just under the ram air tube there is a 10mm bolt on the left and a 5mm Allen bolt on the right.
Turn the bars to get to each side and remove the 2 bolts to release the top of the radiator.
On the bottom, right in front of the header tubes there is a single 10mm bolt securing the bottom of the radiator. Remove it as well.
Radiator will now be "free". Note that hoses, wires, etc. are still attached to it. You can move it down and forward a bit in order to create some working room.
6. Disconnect the coils:
As you look across the top of the motor you will see the 4 coils and the plugs attaching them to the wiring harness.
There is a small tab on the end of each plug, press it down and pull the plugs off the coils, gently. Never pull the plugs by the wires!
Repeat for all 4 coils.
7. Remove the coils:
This is sort of annoying - not a lot of room and the coils are in there pretty good.
Slightly rotate the coils while pulling up to get them out of the head. Don't try to pry them out, etc. They will come out by hand but it may take a bit of time/effort.
Note how far down the coils are for when you go to put them back in.
I try to put the coils back in in the same way as they come out so I just line them up in the order they come out/go in.
8. Remove old plugs:
Use a 5/8" spark plug socket (the type with a rubber grommet in the end that grab the plug and helps you pull it out) to remove the old plugs.
It's sort of tight in there and I used a 3" extension to get the proper reach.
Take a look at your plugs - they tell a good story about what you engine is doing. Going into reading plugs is way beyond the scope of this but Google will get you tons of results.
9. Check gap on new plugs:
The correct gap is 0.6-.07mm or 0.024-0.028" - measure the gap as in the picture. Make sure both sides are correct.
10. Install new plugs:
Drop the new plugs in and hand tighten at first.
Use a torque wrench to snug the plugs down to 13Nm.
11. Reinstall the coils:
Its a good idea to wipe down the coils to get any crap that might be stuck to the boots off before putting them back in.
Slide the coils back over the plugs and gently rotate them a bit to fully seat them.
Repeat for all 4 coils.
12. Reconnect the coils:
Snap the plugs back onto the coils. It's pretty much impossible to reconnect them incorrectly since there's just about enough wire on each plug to reach the correct coil.
13. Reattach the radiator:
Push the radiator back into place and put the upper bolts back in, hand tight.
Line up and attach the lower bolt and tighten to 10Nm.
Tighten the upper bolts to 10Nm.
14. Replace the fairing in reverse order from the way you disassembled them.
It takes a little bit to get the jigsaw puzzle at the front edge of the side fairings to snap in. Don't force anything. It will go together.
On the inner side fairing liner, make sure the pins are pushed out about a 1/4" so that they slide back in (see picture in step 3). Once they are seated just push the center pin flush to lock it.
15. Start the bike, have fun.
